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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.